is there anyway I can drop the heat with me elegoo cc2 Heat bed
Hot end
Chamfer
?
Any advice would be excellent
THNX
SAVING ENERGY?
Moderator: CrazyIvan
SAVING ENERGY?
I'm new very new to this and like saving energy is there anyway I can drop the heat with me elegoo cc2
Heat bed
Hot end
Chamfer
?
Any advice would be excellent
THNX
is there anyway I can drop the heat with me elegoo cc2 Heat bed
Hot end
Chamfer
?
Any advice would be excellent
THNX
Re: SAVING ENERGY?
All the things you mention are available for you to control as you like in the slicer settings. However:
1. Nozzle Temperature (ie hot-end).
The nozzle has to be hot enough to melt the filament. You can get away with reducing the nozzle temperature to some extent, but that reduces the flow rate available and you will need to recalibrate the slicer's filament profile as a result. Within a fairly narrow band of temperature:- cooler = much longer print times = more energy used overall! You will (I guess) use least energy per print by printing it as fast as possible, and often you can improve on the default profile by increasing the nozzle temperature and recalibrating for flow rate (but if you then print more models because it's quicker, obviously you are not saving overall).
Are you using the most economical filament? AFAIK, PLA has the lowest melting point, but PETG seems to be cheaper per kg. I think the cost savings by using PETG might outweigh the cost of energy, but if you are only interested in the energy saving, use PLA.
See here for details how to calibrate a filament, particularly flow rate if you intend to reduce the nozzle temperature: viewtopic.php?t=839
2. Heated Bed
Do you want your model to stick? As I have said many times (but not necessarily in the same way), FDM printing is the art of balancing a pin on the tip of another pin. This particular balancing act is getting the first print layer to stick on the bed firmly enough that it doesn't come off straight away, and resists the warping forces from subsequent layers, and yet can still get the finished print off without breaking anything! Modern PEI build plates are not far short of a miracle in that they stick well (for some filament types – PLA, PETG, and others) when hot, and then release when cooled down. Brilliant.
Before heated beds, you were probably restricted to PLA, and getting them to hold down was a nightmare with all manner of work-arounds such as glue or masking tape. I had PLA prints warp and pull the masking tape up.
Yes, you can probably decrease the heated bed temperature a bit, but too far and you prints will become unreliable according to the details of the print – whether it has an intricate first layer (that can be overcome with a brim or a raft, at extra cost in printing it of course), and whether the vertical geometry lends itself to warping.
It only takes one failed print to wipe out any savings you might have made by trying to optimise its energy use.
3. Chamber
It depends what material you want to print. PLA doesn't need chamber heat, and can react badly in an enclosed printer. Keep the door open. PETG doesn't need chamber heat. The exotic engineering materials such as ABS or nylon (PA) are reported to warp and split if you don't treat them very carefully with the right amount of chamber heat (I have no relevant experience... yet).
Summary
What you stand to gain by trimming the default slicer profiles for lower energy will be wiped out if your alterations result in failed prints, even if the failures are only a few percent of the time.
What's the best way to save energy in FDM printing?
Don't turn it on!
FDM printing = energy consumption. It goes with the territory.
1. Nozzle Temperature (ie hot-end).
The nozzle has to be hot enough to melt the filament. You can get away with reducing the nozzle temperature to some extent, but that reduces the flow rate available and you will need to recalibrate the slicer's filament profile as a result. Within a fairly narrow band of temperature:- cooler = much longer print times = more energy used overall! You will (I guess) use least energy per print by printing it as fast as possible, and often you can improve on the default profile by increasing the nozzle temperature and recalibrating for flow rate (but if you then print more models because it's quicker, obviously you are not saving overall).
Are you using the most economical filament? AFAIK, PLA has the lowest melting point, but PETG seems to be cheaper per kg. I think the cost savings by using PETG might outweigh the cost of energy, but if you are only interested in the energy saving, use PLA.
See here for details how to calibrate a filament, particularly flow rate if you intend to reduce the nozzle temperature: viewtopic.php?t=839
2. Heated Bed
Do you want your model to stick? As I have said many times (but not necessarily in the same way), FDM printing is the art of balancing a pin on the tip of another pin. This particular balancing act is getting the first print layer to stick on the bed firmly enough that it doesn't come off straight away, and resists the warping forces from subsequent layers, and yet can still get the finished print off without breaking anything! Modern PEI build plates are not far short of a miracle in that they stick well (for some filament types – PLA, PETG, and others) when hot, and then release when cooled down. Brilliant.
Before heated beds, you were probably restricted to PLA, and getting them to hold down was a nightmare with all manner of work-arounds such as glue or masking tape. I had PLA prints warp and pull the masking tape up.
Yes, you can probably decrease the heated bed temperature a bit, but too far and you prints will become unreliable according to the details of the print – whether it has an intricate first layer (that can be overcome with a brim or a raft, at extra cost in printing it of course), and whether the vertical geometry lends itself to warping.
It only takes one failed print to wipe out any savings you might have made by trying to optimise its energy use.
3. Chamber
It depends what material you want to print. PLA doesn't need chamber heat, and can react badly in an enclosed printer. Keep the door open. PETG doesn't need chamber heat. The exotic engineering materials such as ABS or nylon (PA) are reported to warp and split if you don't treat them very carefully with the right amount of chamber heat (I have no relevant experience... yet).
Summary
What you stand to gain by trimming the default slicer profiles for lower energy will be wiped out if your alterations result in failed prints, even if the failures are only a few percent of the time.
What's the best way to save energy in FDM printing?
Don't turn it on!
FDM printing = energy consumption. It goes with the territory.
Re: SAVING ENERGY?
THNX A LOT
For all that with me being a beginner it's a big help . When you first get 1 of these you think OR A PIECE OF CAKE but then not long after it's not much different to fishing IN YOU WANT FISH it gets TECHNICAL
THNX
For all that with me being a beginner it's a big help . When you first get 1 of these you think OR A PIECE OF CAKE but then not long after it's not much different to fishing IN YOU WANT FISH it gets TECHNICAL
THNX
Re: SAVING ENERGY?
Yes, there is a lot to learn, and that gets glossed over by modern machines with optimised slicer settings carefully dialled in for their make of filament (so people are herded into buying it), but they will work with any brand of filament if you learn how.
There is no substitute for getting down to the nitty-gritty, even if you do start with what "they" say and only go your own way later.
There is no substitute for getting down to the nitty-gritty, even if you do start with what "they" say and only go your own way later.
Re: SAVING ENERGY?
Thanks for your help
Sounds like happy days
Let's get to it
Thnx
Sounds like happy days
Let's get to it
Thnx