At least three members of this forum (including me) have suffered failure of the Y belt guide pulley. In my case, it was on my Tina2S. However, I have examined my Tina2 and find that is also showing signs of imminent failure.
Update: it seems the design in this area has been beefed up on later revisions of the Tina2 and Tina2S. If an inspection of the underside of your unit shows 8 ribs around the mounting for the Y belt pulley (rather than the three shown here), hopefully there is no need for action. It is not necessary to remove the pulley to see the ribs. See photo in this post (click).
The photos show the threaded insert that secures the screw for the guide pulley (see also viewtopic.php?p=1575#p1575). Note the cracking in the plastic pillar which houses the brass insert. I have no doubt it was this cracking that eventually resulted in the plastic breaking away and the insert no longer holding the pulley in place on my Tina2S, and I have no doubt this also accounts for other reports.
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The cause is the (necessary) tension of the Y belt on the guide pulley, the pulley's axle being the screw through it and into the insert. The screw is only captive at the insert, which is off-centre from the force applied by the belt and therefore applies leverage on the insert. If it were not for this leverage, I do not believe the plastic would fail. To counter it, the plastic pillar needed to be designed thicker (the alternative being some kind of bracing at the other end of the screw, which would make assembly difficult).
A stitch in time saves nine (so the adage goes), and action while these are only cracks (or preferably before cracks appear at all) should be less difficult than after it has failed completely.
What to do? See next post, but if yours looks like this you probably want to stop using it...
Tina2 / Tina2S Design Fault – Urgent Preventative Measures
Moderator: CrazyIvan
Re: Tina2 / Tina2S Design Fault – Urgent Action Required
I have designed a printed reinforcing block that is an interference fit over the pillar and ribs. The print is quite tough where it needs to be, and the idea is to immobilise the parts of the moulding which are susceptible to cracking.
Here it is installed:
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...and here is a close up showing that the cracks have been completely closed up (compare with the photo in the previous post):
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Apply to me by PM for a copy of the print file (suitable for PLA or PLA+, Tina2 or Tina2S). The first layer is very simple so I have not used a raft. This should be OK particularly on a Tina2S, but if you have difficulties on a Tina2 let me know and you can have one sliced with a raft. Note it is highly recommended to perform E Steps calibration before printing, see viewtopic.php?t=690.
As an interference fit, it needs pressing into place quite forcibly. The reinforcing block is properly seated when the top is flush with the pillar. You could probably jack it down with the screw, but IMO it would be better not to do that (it risks extracting the brass insert) so I will also provide a print file for a block to press it home using a G cramp (or ratchet cramp). Personally, I used a block of wood for this.
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For details of Y belt removal and replacement, see viewtopic.php?p=1575#p1575.
EVERYONE WITH AN OLD-VERSION TINA2 OR TINA2S SHOULD FIT ONE OF THESE, whether the pillar is cracked or not. Hopefully it will stop the pillar breaking off completely, thus avoiding a more extensive repair.
Here it is installed:
. .
...and here is a close up showing that the cracks have been completely closed up (compare with the photo in the previous post):
. .
Apply to me by PM for a copy of the print file (suitable for PLA or PLA+, Tina2 or Tina2S). The first layer is very simple so I have not used a raft. This should be OK particularly on a Tina2S, but if you have difficulties on a Tina2 let me know and you can have one sliced with a raft. Note it is highly recommended to perform E Steps calibration before printing, see viewtopic.php?t=690.
As an interference fit, it needs pressing into place quite forcibly. The reinforcing block is properly seated when the top is flush with the pillar. You could probably jack it down with the screw, but IMO it would be better not to do that (it risks extracting the brass insert) so I will also provide a print file for a block to press it home using a G cramp (or ratchet cramp). Personally, I used a block of wood for this.
. . .
For details of Y belt removal and replacement, see viewtopic.php?p=1575#p1575.
EVERYONE WITH AN OLD-VERSION TINA2 OR TINA2S SHOULD FIT ONE OF THESE, whether the pillar is cracked or not. Hopefully it will stop the pillar breaking off completely, thus avoiding a more extensive repair.
Re: Tina2 / Tina2S Design Fault – Urgent Action Required
NB: I also have a solution (unpublished) for when the pillar has broken and will no longer retain the insert (as per viewtopic.php?p=1627#p1627) that does not require mucking around with filler to reconstruct the pillar, but it needs trialling and I have no suitable unmolested test subject.
Anyone willing to be a guinea pig (at no cost to them) is welcome to PM me. Once proven, I will make a repair kit available through my shop.
Anyone willing to be a guinea pig (at no cost to them) is welcome to PM me. Once proven, I will make a repair kit available through my shop.
Re: Tina2 / Tina2S Design Fault – Urgent Action Required
Nice investigation Ivan, I'm sure it will help fellow Tina2 owners !
Re: Tina2 / Tina2S Design Fault – Urgent Preventative Measures
I've mentioned and linked to this thread in the Entina Owners group on FB. So far it has had limited engagement.
Somebody there claims the problem has been rectified in later versions of the Tina2/S, but did not present any corroborative evidence so (at the moment) this is just hear-say.
The group is private to group members only (what do they have to hide?), but here's the link to the post: https://www.facebook.com/groups/entina3 ... 316228090/
Somebody there claims the problem has been rectified in later versions of the Tina2/S, but did not present any corroborative evidence so (at the moment) this is just hear-say.
The group is private to group members only (what do they have to hide?), but here's the link to the post: https://www.facebook.com/groups/entina3 ... 316228090/
Re: Tina2 / Tina2S Design Fault – Urgent Preventative Measures
Photos have been posted showing a grey underside (Tina2 I presume) and a green underside (Tina2S) with extra ribs in the moulding around the Y pulley pilar, 8 in total as opposed to three on our units.KenW wrote: Wed Nov 12, 2025 10:01 am Somebody there claims the problem has been rectified in later versions of the Tina2/S, but did not present any corroborative evidence so (at the moment) this is just hear-say.
I'm waiting for permission to repost the photos here.
Re: Tina2 / Tina2S Design Fault – Urgent Preventative Measures
That's great news for more recent purchasers, I wonder when the revision came in?KenW wrote: Thu Nov 13, 2025 5:04 pm Photos have been posted showing a grey underside (Tina2 I presume) and a green underside (Tina2S) with extra ribs in the moulding around the Y pulley pilar, 8 in total as opposed to three on our units.
Re: Tina2 / Tina2S Design Fault – Urgent Action Required
I am still looking for volunteers.CrazyIvan wrote: Mon Nov 10, 2025 5:17 pm NB: I also have a solution (unpublished) for when the pillar has broken and will no longer retain the insert (as per viewtopic.php?p=1627#p1627) that does not require mucking around with filler to reconstruct the pillar, but it needs trialling and I have no suitable unmolested test subject.
Anyone willing to be a guinea pig (at no cost to them) is welcome to PM me. Once proven, I will make a repair kit available through my shop.
Re: Tina2 / Tina2S Design Fault – Urgent Preventative Measures
'Ere 'tis. This shows the ribs reinforcing the mounting pillar, apparently the (revised) Tina2 and the Tina2S (courtesy Theo Agger):
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Re: Tina2 / Tina2S Design Fault – Urgent Preventative Measures
Can't really tell from that, but it looks like they may have also increased the diameter of the boss the threaded insert goes into.