I didnt need to remove the top panel to fit the z screw stabiliser. Tightening the screw on the 3d printed clamp was the tricky part since it takes ages using an allen key doing quarter turns at a time.
Without the stabiliser i can rock the z screw from the top and the gantry does tilt as i move the screw. So far the prints iv done are coming out excellent.
The harness thats zip tied to the gantry as stock gets pinched at an angle i should have taken photos before changing it out i will have to check if i have an older photo but it was the reason why my proximity sensor wire got damaged as iv mentioned in the other thread.
The way iv fixed it now using 2 zipties will prevent it from getting stress at that joint now.
Iv messaged the guy on thingyverse who did the Z screw stabiliser mod and he gave me a lot of info about it. What he has up there is his 8th attempt at getting all the measurements right and he has various other mods to the printer which he says puts it into a much higher class of machine.
I will be doing more prints over the xmas holidays so will report back on how its doing.
Tina2 Anatomy & Repair
Moderator: CrazyIvan
Re: Tina2 Anatomy & Repair
turns out i did have a photo on my phone of how the cable was zip tied to the gantry:
as you can see from that pic the way its tied and the movement it takes does cause it to stress that cable a lot resulting in wires breaking. good thing iv sorted this before more critical wires like the hot end power or thermistor cables got damaged.
compare to how it is now in the pic below:
as you can see from that pic the way its tied and the movement it takes does cause it to stress that cable a lot resulting in wires breaking. good thing iv sorted this before more critical wires like the hot end power or thermistor cables got damaged.
compare to how it is now in the pic below:
Last edited by slybunda on Sun Dec 17, 2023 8:52 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Re: Tina2 Anatomy & Repair
I don't have that clamp at all, and I see no need for it. I have ideas about an entire replacement for the umbilical assembly anyway.
As for the rocking of the gantry, I shall investigate.
As for the rocking of the gantry, I shall investigate.
Re: Tina2 Anatomy & Repair
thats odd, can you post of photo of how your cord is setup and attached to the gantry?
Re: Tina2 Anatomy & Repair
"Odd" as in "mine's not like that and it must be odd on the basis of a sample of 1"?
You can see most of what I'm talking about in post 1 in this thread. Nothing to restrict the flexing of the umbilical where it needs to flex, just stop it flexing where it would strain the interconnect. At the control end, that means a cable tie to secure it, and then it is nipped under the X stepper. After that, it is completely free to twist and flex until it reaches the clamp attached to the hot end.
The key to preventing wire fracture is to ensure the twist and flex is distributed over as long a length as possible, and prevent it being concentrated at any one point. That means the maximum length between clamps.
You can see most of what I'm talking about in post 1 in this thread. Nothing to restrict the flexing of the umbilical where it needs to flex, just stop it flexing where it would strain the interconnect. At the control end, that means a cable tie to secure it, and then it is nipped under the X stepper. After that, it is completely free to twist and flex until it reaches the clamp attached to the hot end.
The key to preventing wire fracture is to ensure the twist and flex is distributed over as long a length as possible, and prevent it being concentrated at any one point. That means the maximum length between clamps.
Re: Tina2 Anatomy & Repair
makes sense but strange that im not the only one who has has this issue of snapped wire on prox sensor.
next step is to update the firmware, weefun support sent me firmware version 1.2.1. current version im running is 1.0.7
next step is to update the firmware, weefun support sent me firmware version 1.2.1. current version im running is 1.0.7
Re: Tina2 Anatomy & Repair
Perhaps that's why the clamp wasn't fitted on mine, but the sensor cable still broke (where the clamping to the hot-end carriage was mismanaged). I think the cable management can be improved though.
Interesting. I wonder whether Entina will issue the same.next step is to update the firmware, weefun support sent me firmware version 1.2.1. current version im running is 1.0.7
Re: Tina2 Anatomy & Repair
yes cable management is the issue here. for now iv applied some tesa tape thats use on car wiring looms to the points where a ziptie is attached so that should put less stress on it. although now im running my custom wiring which is 22awg silicone wires for the prox sensor and the fan. gives added flexibility to the overall cable harness and thicker wires with thinner strands got less chance of failing.
firmware upgrade didnt work gave me a file error. communicating with support now to see whats up with the file they gave.
firmware upgrade didnt work gave me a file error. communicating with support now to see whats up with the file they gave.
Re: Tina2 Anatomy & Repair
I've checked my Tina2 and the gantry does not tilt. Perhaps I have a more recent revision of the hardware.
Re: Tina2 Anatomy & Repair
Did you use your finger on the top of the z screw and push it side to side? Push it firmly enough and mine moved about 2mm. This test has to be done with the gantry all the way to the bottom close to touching the bed. If the gantry is at the top then you wont get the movement since the gantry keeps the Z screw in alignment.