I've bypassed this. I thought about making a different bracket (or re-mounting the existing holder) for the sensor and bring the sensor thread into operation, but in the end I found a simpler solution:CrazyIvan wrote: ↑Fri Aug 04, 2023 6:47 pm Something I don't like is the grub screws gripping onto the sensor body – I wish there was thread at each end of its mounting so that the locking nuts supplied with it can be used. The grub screws grip onto the thread, which makes the adjustment notchy rather than continuous.
I noticed the two set screws which clamp the sensor in place don't have flat ends (the result of their threads being cold-formed by rolling). The lip then acts like a tooth which engages with the thread on the sensor, so that the adjustment is "notchy" (as described in the quote).
By simply filing the ends of the screws flat, the adjustment is now smooth. The diameter of the set screw spans at least two threads on the sensor, so there is no indexing.
Nut adjustment would be preferable, but a lot of effort to implement.
Adjustment
In my opinion, the sensor needs to be set as high as possible while still triggering before the nozzle grounds. This is to avoid the sensor plucking the print, if any print residue is proud of the surface.
- With the power off, slacken the sensor screws (2.5mm hex driver / Allen key). Place a sheet of copy paper onto the print bed, and push the Z motion down to ground the nozzle onto it.
- Turn on power, and with the sensor loose and also grounded its LED should be on. Ease the sensor up until the LED goes off, and then just down enough for the LED to come back on again.
- Clamp the sensor at this height. There should be a small gap under the sensor.
- With the paper still in place, perform the Prepare > Z Offset calibration. Set the offset so that the nozzle just grips the paper.