Tina2 Tweaks & Mods

[CrazyIvan]

Something I don't like is the grub screws gripping onto the sensor body – I wish there was thread at each end of its mounting so that the locking nuts supplied with it can be used. The grub screws grip onto the thread, which makes the adjustment notchy rather than continuous.

I've bypassed this. I thought about making a different bracket (or re-mounting the existing holder) for the sensor and bring the sensor thread into operation, but in the end I found a simpler solution:

I noticed the two set screws which clamp the sensor in place don't have flat ends (the result of their threads being cold-formed by rolling). The lip then acts like a tooth which engages with the thread on the sensor, so that the adjustment is "notchy" (as described in the quote).

By simply filing the ends of the screws flat, the adjustment is now smooth. The diameter of the set screw spans at least two threads on the sensor, so there is no indexing.

Nut adjustment would be preferable, but a lot of effort to implement.

Adjustment

In my opinion, the sensor needs to be set as high as possible while still triggering before the nozzle grounds. This is to avoid the sensor plucking the print, if any print residue is proud of the surface.

1. With the power off, slacken the sensor screws (2.5mm hex driver / Allen key). Place a sheet of copy paper onto the print bed, and push the Z motion down to ground the nozzle onto it.
2. Turn on power, and with the sensor loose and also grounded its LED should be on. Ease the sensor up until the LED goes off, and then just down enough for the LED to come back on again.
3. Clamp the sensor at this height. There should be a small gap under the sensor.
4. With the paper still in place, perform the Prepare > Z Offset calibration. Set the offset so that the nozzle just grips the paper.

This process might have to be repeated if the nozzle grounds during Z Offset.

[slybunda]

In my opinion, the sensor needs to be set as high as possible while still triggering before the nozzle grounds. This is to avoid the sensor plucking the print, if any print residue is proud of the surface.

not something you need to worry about much. the sensor only needs to be higher up than the nozzle that way it wont catch the print. even being 0.5mm above the nozzle is sufficient the rest can be sorted out with Z offset.

[CrazyIvan]

Why not set it as high as possible? Seems pointless doing anything else, if you have the choice.

I've had warp detach the print, but would have gotten away with it if the sensor hadn't caught it.

[slybunda]

Can set it as high as possible but not sure if as the sensor ages or heat changes its detection range

[KenW]

Just in case it helps anybody: the Tina2 manual says the maximum size of microSD card is something like 8GB, but I am currently successfully using a 128GB card (8GB cards are hard to find!).

I'm not certain it would be able to access the whole card, but it certainly works for a few files.

[slybunda]

Thats good to know, im currently swapping between a 2gb and a very old 512mb one.

[CrazyIvan]

Can set it as high as possible but not sure if as the sensor ages or heat changes its detection range

I don't see why it should, but I'll adjust it as required when it happens!

[slybunda]

I could do with having some sort of light inside the printer shining on the thing being printed. Any ideas if i can just put in those strip led things inside?
Would need to tap power from somewhere

[CrazyIvan]

I could do with having some sort of light inside the printer shining on the thing being printed.

I've been thinking the same thing.

Any ideas if i can just put in those strip led things inside?

I don't see why not, there's plenty of room!

Would need to tap power from somewhere

Lots of options, eg 12V power to the proximity sensor is on all the time. I'm not sure whether 5V is available on the USB-B port.